During a December 2022 trip to Tucson, Arizona for Axle Alex’s wedding, Sandstone Sammy and I became fascinated by the southern Arizona border with Mexico. Our curiosity was piqued after discovering the book “The Devil’s Highway”. Eager to explore further, we began planning a trip to ride the El Camino del Diablo, also known as The Devil’s Highway. This region held a special allure for me, having previously delved into books like “American Dirt” and Craig Childs’ captivating masterpiece, “The Secret Knowledge of Water“, which ranks among my all-time top 10 reads. The area exudes an aura of mystery and intrigue that captivated our imaginations.
In April 2023, Sandstone Sammy, Bigfoot Ben, and I embarked on our journey to Yuma, Arizona, equipped with both razors for added safety on the remote trail. Initially intending to ride from Yuma to Ajo and back, our plans shifted when the road closure at Organ Pipe National Monument disrupted our route to Ajo due to construction. Consequently, we adapted our itinerary and opted for a couple of days exploring out-and-back rides in the surrounding area instead.
Day 1
On day one of our trail adventure, we embarked from the Fortuna Foothills, commencing our journey at the western start of El Camino del Diablo. Before entering the Barry M Goldwater Test Range, securing a permit was necessary, a step we had already completed. The process of checking in online as we entered the range was straightforward.
The ride itself proved to be breathtaking. Thanks to the recent wet winter in the west, the cacti were in full and vibrant bloom, presenting a spectacular sight. The ocotillos were particularly striking, with vast fields adorned with their flowering beauty.
Our journey included a stop for a hike to a tinaja, something I had read about in “The Secret Knowledge of Water” and had since wanted to experience firsthand. Tinajas, natural hollows in the desert, serve as vital reservoirs collecting and preserving water for various desert creatures. Encountering one amidst the scorching desert canyon was truly fascinating—a sudden oasis in an otherwise arid landscape. The intensity of the late April heat, nearing 100 degrees, became palpable during this hike.
As we continued along the road, Border Patrol trucks and posts peppered the landscape, with the distant view of the ever-present border wall. Eventually, we arrived at a natural spring a few miles beyond the Camp Grip border patrol outpost. Fortunately, this spring housed a tank filled with refreshing, cool water—a true relief from the sweltering sun. After replenishing ourselves and taking a breather, we turned around to head back.
On the return journey, we veered northward towards Wellton, Arizona, encountering more Border Patrol trucks and military training equipment scattered across the bombing range. Each turn held an element of surprise. A particular instance occurred when we rounded a corner in a small canyon, where Sandstone Sammy and Bigfoot Ben spotted a border patrol agent using binoculars from a knoll a couple of hundred yards away—an indication of the ever-watchful eyes in the desert.
Another memorable moment was witnessing a low-flying helicopter engaged in maneuvers while being tracked by what appeared to be ground targeting systems—an intriguing sight indeed.
Finally reaching Wellton, we refueled and continued our journey along the Arizona Peace Trail, heading back to the Fortuna Foothills area.
Day 2
On the second day, we opted for a more relaxed schedule, choosing to visit the border crossing at Los Algodones. After parking, we strolled across the border, immersing ourselves in the city’s vibrant atmosphere. Los Algodones is renowned for its dental and optometry services, evident from the numerous offices dotting the town. We leisurely explored, coming close to the border wall, and eventually paused for a satisfying lunch before heading back to the United States of America.
Subsequently, we spent a couple of hours driving around Yuma and the border vicinity. One of the highlights was witnessing the final diversion of the Colorado River. Right at the US/Mexico border, a crucial canal diverts the last remnants of the Colorado River, allowing only a meager trickle to flow into Mexico. Witnessing this sight held a significant emotional weight for me, given my deep appreciation for the Colorado River and its rich history. Seeing its diminished state was a poignant reminder of its dwindling flow.
Day 3
Today, we hopped back into our razors, eager to explore the expanse of the Barry M Goldwater range. Following our exhilarating ride on Day 1, the allure of the area drew us back, especially as I had read about a crashed F-14 fighter jet and was keen to locate it.
Our ride turned out to be nothing short of extraordinary. We stumbled upon remnants of past bombing runs—scattered ordnance like spent gun shells, fuel tanks, and numerous flares, reminders of a bygone era when live munitions were commonly used (nowadays, it’s mostly laser-based training). The F-14 crash site was a sight to behold. The plane had crashed in a flat spin, miraculously allowing the pilots to survive, but resulting in the aircraft pancaking into the desert. Surprisingly well-preserved, the wreckage offered an adventurous playground to climb and explore.
Adding to the unexpected discoveries, we came across a “fake city” used for infantry training purposes. Constructed from shipping containers and featuring steel cut-outs mimicking enemy personnel and equipment for target practice, it was fascinating to roam around this simulated urban landscape.
Wrapping up our ride led us back to Wellton, where we continued along more of the Arizona Peace Trail until we reached the Colorado River. Sandstone Sammy and Bigfoot Ben took a refreshing dip in the river to cool off, providing a fantastic conclusion to our adventurous expedition.
Conclusion
This ranks as one of the most remarkable RZR adventures we’ve ever embarked upon. The desert scenery was a vivid canvas showcasing stunning colors, while the Black Mountains stood as a testament to their rugged strength. The palpable sense of isolation in the desert resonated deeply, underscoring its remoteness.
The border’s haunting atmosphere, reflecting the sacrifices made by many to seek a new life in the United States, was a poignant reminder. Encountering military elements and border agents added an intriguing layer to our memories, steeped in mystery.
I highly recommend this trip, though I advise being well-prepared for the area’s rugged and remote nature, ensuring safety above all else. For further details on this adventure, feel free to reach out. While some locations might require a bit of digging on Google for exact information, they are out there. Remember to respect all laws, obtain necessary permits, and stick to designated roads and trails. Enjoy the journey!
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